April 23, 2008
SanTan Brewing Company
By Nikki Buchanan, Restaurant Critic
8 South San Marcos Plaza, Chandler
480-917-8700
"What's so special about a brew pub?", you might reasonably ask. Well, one visit to SanTan and you'll have your answer. Owner and brew master Anthony Canecchia, who learned a thing or two about brewing at Four Peaks (arguably the Valley's most popular micro-brewery) brings great vibe, great food and great beer together at this noisy, casual, neighborhood spot, located in the heart of Chandler's historic downtown. Canecchia offers a half dozen different styles of suds, including a light-bodied golden ale, an amber lager and an inky-black stout. And to improve the drinking experience, he has designed his own 18-ounce beer glass (hand blown by fellow craftsman Peter Sciacca), which not only keeps the head on the beer longer but also allows the beer to roll over the whole palate for maximum flavor appreciation. If you're a beer-nut, it's pretty cool. Meanwhile, Chef Brant Gasparak turns out tasty pub grub that manages to be a wee bit sophisticated while staying true to its down-and-dirty roots. You'll definitely want to try one of the burgers (stuffed with things like marinated artichokes, spinach and feta cheese), the excellent beer-battered fish and chips and the thick, juicy Reuben sandwich. The pizzas (their puffy, lightly browned crusts infused with beer) are darned good too, particularly the Arizona vs. Boston, a combo of grilled chicken, house-made tomato sauce, three cheeses, banana peppers, red onion and pine nuts. Best of all, there's a terrific indoor-outdoor bar for enjoying AZ's good weather.
Posted by Nikki Buchanan | 4:36 PM | Comments (0)
April 3, 2008
A Reason To Get Up in the Morning
By Nikki Buchanan, Restaurant Critic
Over Easy
4031 N. 40th Street, Phoenix
602-468-EGGS (3447)
Aaron May, the talented chef behind Sol Y Sombra, has opened a breakfast restaurant in a former Taco Bell, offering sophisticated comfort food for die-hard breakfast lovers. And it hasn't taken long for breakfast lovers to find him. Get there after 9 a.m. on the weekend, and you'll probably be waiting for a table in the tiny, yolk-colored interior or out on the enclosed patio. What's the appeal? Well, pretty much everything, including good coffee, house-made apple butter, fabulous razz cherry scones (served with créme fraîche and a drizzle of honey), Neuske's bacon and the best blueberry pancakes in town. Honestly, there isn't much here you won't like. The crisp malted waffle is terrific, as are traditional breakfast favorites such as chicken-fried steak and ham with redeye gravy. Get past the somewhat sloppy presentation and you'll find that the three eggs with steak, caramelized onions and chilies is absolutely delicious, while the namesake Over Easy (toasted brioche, topped with spinach, fried egg and "bacon sauce") looks as good as it tastes. Light eaters will also appreciate the perfect the egg white omelet with asparagus and the Scottish salmon with asparagus and hollandaise. The kids will be happy too, thanks to pancakes made with M&Ms and Reese's Pieces. Trust me, if you're a breakfast fanatic, Over Easy is egg-zactly what you're looking for. Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., Monday through Friday; 6:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. $
Posted by Nikki Buchanan | 10:04 AM | Comments (0)
April 2, 2008
Two great patios for sipping wine & enjoying the outdoors
By Nikki Buchanan, Restaurant Critic
Bomberos Café & Wine Bar
8801 N. Central Avenue, Suite 104, Phoenix
602-687-8466
Fine’s Cellar
7051 East Fifth Avenue, Scottsdale
480-994-3463
When the weather is glorious and you want to spend every second outdoors, both Bomberos and Fine's make great hangouts for wine sipping, snacking and lounging around.
Housed in an old fire station in Sunnyslope, Bomberos (which means "firemen" in Spanish) is a South American-inspired wine bar, owned by Uruguayan-born Oscar Mastrantuono and his wife Kristi. The 25-bottle wine list offers South American wines exclusively, including Brazilian Merlot, Argentine Malbec and a handful of more obscure varietals. The morning menu is limited to wonderful coffee and Willo-baked scones and muffins while lunch revolves around panini. At night, you'll find more panini and a handful of wine-friendly snacks — bruschetta, cheeses and charcuterie, served with things like nuts, dried fruits, roasted peppers and olives. Thanks to its roll-up windows, Bomberos invites comparison to Postino, but Bomberos has one singular advantage: a mesquite tree-shaded patio furnished with a fire pit and lots of cushy furniture. Although Bomberos looks absolutely great inside, it's the outside that makes you want to just move in. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $-$$
Fine's Cellar, located on the west end of Fifth Avenue, has charms of its own — a retail wine shop, an adorable gelato-coffee bar, a handsome, contemporary dining room and a simple patio surrounded by small shops. Chef Cullen Campbell (formerly of Camus) has five Contemporary American menus in place, including breakfast in the coffee bar, lunch, dinner and a four-course tasting menu, complete with wine pairings, called "La Dolce Vita." The tasting menu is actually a great way to go, although adding wines can jack up the tab pretty quickly. Lunch options, including the truffled grilled cheese sandwich, the Monte Cristo, sweet potato fries and duck a l'Orange salad, are fun and less expensive if you're in the mood to lounge, sip wine and soak up the sunshine. Do try the gelato with cookies. Very simple and homey. Breakfast and lunch daily; dinner Tuesday through Saturday. $-$$$
Posted by Nikki Buchanan | 4:25 PM | Comments (0)
March 14, 2008
Cien Agaves Tacos & Tequila
By Nikki Buchanan, Restaurant Critic
If you're looking for a good time Southwest-style, check out this funky, concrete-floored cantina, decorated with kitschy Mexican art. As the name suggests, it specializes in tacos and tequila, offering 13 varieties of the former and 100 varieties of the latter, all premium tequilas made from 100% agave (lesser tequilas contain only 51%). As you might imagine, Cien Agaves whips up some mean margaritas, using fresh lime juice, real prickly pears (not syrup) and other bold ingredients such as cucumber (which, I'm told, is a big seller as the weather heats up). Taco choices include carnitas, carne asada, lobster, baja lobster (deep-fried), al pastor (adobo pork with pineapple), chorizo with potato and a half dozen others you'll want to check out for yourself. Can't make up your mind? Try the platter, which offers one of each, and bring your friends to finish it all. The house-made chips are delish, as is the chunky guacamole. Save room for dreamy Kahlua flan. Lunch and dinner M-Sa. $-$$
Posted by Nikki Buchanan | 12:35 PM | Comments (0)
Urban Tea Loft
By Nikki Buchanan, Restaurant Critic
11 West Boston Street, Chandler
480-786-9600
Owner Glynis LeGrand — a breast cancer survivor who got interested in green tea for its restorative properties — really knows tea. In fact, she holds the highest level of certification for tea and talks tea talk in much the same way that a sommelier discusses wine. But there's nothing snooty or condescending about her adorable restaurant and tea shop, housed in an historic building with high ceilings and big windows. Glynis and her husband (who is also certified in tea) sell over 50 premium teas as well as offering a slew of teas on their appealing menu. If tea sounds a little tame, try one of the cocktails, infused with flavored tea. Meanwhile, with its modern lighting and soft green and gold walls, the Loft really does look urban, not like a tea room for little old ladies. The menu offers sophisticated salads and sandwiches that have a little heft to them, which is why men stop in for lunch and dinner too. The poached pear salad, containing tea-poached pears with crunchy brûléed tops as well as candied walnuts, dried fruit and Saga blue cheese is wonderful, and who can resist gigantic baked potatoes (called Hot Jackets) topped with your choice of extras such as bacon, blue cheese, cheddar, nuts, dried fruit, hard-cooked egg, pickles and spinach. Yum! Imagine a lemon thyme tea-brined, house-roasted turkey sandwich or an Urban Melt with cheddar, sliced egg, bacon and balsamic tomatoes. A children's tea is offered for six dollars; grown-ups may choose between classic tea sandwiches or high-protein sandwiches (priced at $14 and $16 respectively), offered with a pot of tea. Urban Tea Loft also serves house-baked scones, croissants and buttermilk biscuits as well as Devonshire cream, house preserves and honey. Desserts are not made in-house, but they're pretty doggoned good anyway. Two rooms in the back are perfect for tea parties, showers and business functions. And if you're interested in learning more about tea, Glynis has started Tea 101 classes. Call for info.
Posted by Nikki Buchanan | 11:48 AM | Comments (0)
March 3, 2008
Happy Birthday To You!
By Nikki Buchanan, Restaurant Critic
Bloom
8877 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale
480-922-5666
Roaring Fork
4800 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale
480-947-0795
Rancho de Tia Rosa
3129 E. McKellips Road, Mesa
480-659-8787
Ah, there's nothing like getting the full restaurant monty on your birthday: the singing off-key, the clapping, the utter embarrassment. Well, here are three places that do things a little differently. It's always advisable to call the restaurant ahead of time about the birthday person in question, but it certainly isn't necessary. Contemporary American Bloom actually has a voucher system. If you've celebrated a birthday there before, they automatically send the birthday person a dessert voucher when his or her birthday rolls around again. The dessert offered is Bloom's signature Bars of Sin (chocolate-hazelnut wafer cookies, layered with chocolate mousse and dipped in chocolate, then served with vanilla bean ice cream, chocolate and caramel sauces). Very yummy and no annoying singing. At Roaring Fork (which features upscale, American Western food), the birthday person may choose the free dessert of his or her choice, and the choices are awesome. Try the banana split (wrapped in a flour tortilla, deep-fried and sprinkled with cinnamon-sugar), served with ice cream, whipped cream and various yummy sauces. Another great RF dessert is the huckleberry bread pudding. Each birthday dessert comes topped with an edible "Happy Birthday" sign, fashioned from white chocolate. Call ahead and the staff will even sign a birthday card! At Rancho de Tia Rosa (a colorful regional Mexican restaurant), the birthday person receives a complimentary dessert of fried ice cream with strawberries and whipped cream. If it happens to be a Friday or Saturday night, he or she will also be serenaded by strolling mariachis.
Posted by Nikki Buchanan | 4:17 PM | Comments (0)
Aiello's Fine Italian Dining
By Nikki Buchanan, Restaurant Critic
5202 N. Central Avenue, Phoenix
602-277-8700
Although I've found hits and misses at this upscale neighborhood Italian restaurant, I'm making it a Nikki's Pick for one simple reason: when Aiello's is good, it's really good. The house-made focaccia, served with herbed butter, is one stellar example of what this place can do; the spaghetti and meatballs is another. Native New Yorker Joe Aiello uses his mother's recipe for his miraculous meatballs — tender, giant-size orbs made with pork and veal — which just may be the best in town. The Tre Colore salad, lightly dressed with EVOO and lemon, prompts me to put another check on the "pluses" side of the score card, as do the breaded and fried artichokes, stuffed with mascarpone and finished in light cream sauce. Yummy! Grilled cheese sandwich fans won't want to miss the Italian version, called Mozzarella en Carozza (mozzarella in a carriage), served with a lemon-wine sauce, salty with anchovies and capers. As for desserts, there's a light, creamy ricotta cheesecake, dreamy zabaglione with strawberries and a fine chocolate torte. The misses are found in between, meaning entrees that are good but certainly not great. Are the good dishes enough to outweigh the mediocre ones? You'll have to decide for yourself. Lunch M-F; Dinner nightly. $-$$$
Posted by Nikki Buchanan | 3:14 PM | Comments (0)
